What is a DISA Valve? A Rundown of Symptoms and Replacement

The DISA valve is a component situated in many BMW intake manifolds, and is vital to the smooth operation of the engine.  DISA stands for the German “Differenzierte Sauganlage” which basically means Differentiated Intake, and the valve for it is often called (at least in our catalog) an Intake Manifold Adjusting Unit.  Rough driving, loss of power, and increased fuel consumption can all be caused by a malfunctioning DISA valve, which is a known failure point.  It is, afterall, situated right on top of the engine, plugged straight into the intake manifold.  There were a few variations of the system, but to truly diagnose if your DISA valve is bad, it helps to understand a little bit of the background theory. I will go over that for the tech geeks out there at the end of this post.  The nitty gritty of it is that this is a car part that will cause problems eventually, and it’s important to know of it before you begin to encounter the first signs of it breaking.

A Failing DISA Valve – Shop DISA Valves

Intake Manifold Adjusting Unit (DISA Valve)
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The valve can fail in a few different ways, but realizing when it’s about to fail is crucial.  This is because they can literally fall apart and scatter debris into your engine.  You do not want this.  The failure starts with an annoying rattle as the valve is unable to stay closed.  When you unplug the valve, the airflow will simply push it open and the rattling will go away.  Here’s a great video illustrating this on an M50 family engine, specifically an E39.  You can test the diaphragm that actuates the valve by putting vacuum on it.  If it holds vacuum but is still being loud and rattly, you may be looking at a failure of the flap itself.

DISA valves generally last around 70-100k miles depending on what version it is, driving style, and environment.  Since the valve’s primary job is to divert airflow into the cylinders, the engine will not run properly if the air flap is not making a proper seal.  Generally speaking, the result is problems with fuel mixture, resulting in poor fuel economy.  Occasionally the air seals will go bad without the actual valve failing.  The main culprit is the O-Ring that connects right to the manifold.  If this seal goes bad, you will end up with a vacuum leak, resulting in un-metered air getting into the cylinders.  On an M52, you can purchase just the seal, part number 11617504543.  In most other cars you must buy a new unit or sketchily attempt to RTV the bad o-ring.

Intake Manifold Adjusting Unit O-Ring (DISA Seal)
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The Air Mass Meter (Or MAF Mass Air Flow sensor) tells the engine ECU exactly how much air is entering the engine.  If any of the above issues allow in air that the ECU is not expecting, it will not be able to add more fuel to balance the mixture, and you will end up with a dangerous lean condition.  A fully failed or leaking DISA valve will usually signal a check engine light, as if it wasn’t signal enough that the engine runs poopy.  Now of course there are other places in the intake system where leaks can develop after the AMM, so keep an open mind when diagnosing.

On many cars, the valve is located right on the end of the intake manifold.  On later cars, BMW installed a 3 stage DISA system that uses two valves.  The second is harder to get to, installed on the bottom of the manifold.

Intake Manifold Adjusting Unit Kit (DISA Valve)
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How intake tuning works, and why this all exists

Think of your engine’s intake manifold like a brass horn.  To get the sound you want, you lengthen or shorten the horn to achieve a resonance (tone).  As your intake valves close on a particular cylinder, the air that was charging in abruptly encounters the back of the closed valves and bounces off.  Eventually that pressure wave will travel back up the intake, hit the back side of it, bounce again, and charge straight back towards the cylinder (all at roughly the speed of sound).  Still with me?

The idea on intake tuning is that you want that pressure wave to arrive back at the cylinder at precisely the moment the intake valves open again, allowing the air sitting there to whoosh right in like Japanese Soccer team getting onto a Shinjuku train with a running start. This principle also works with exhausts on sort of the same principle, except on a header you want the pressure wave to pull the exhaust out of the freshly open exhaust valves (this is called “Scavenging”).

So, visualizing this, you can understand that at low RPM, it’s beneficial to have a longer length tube so that as the engine spins slowly, the pressure wave has a little more time to get to the back of the plenum and arrive to the cylinder as the valves open.  At high RPM, shorter runners are beneficial to get this ram air effect with a very short frequency.

This effect only works for a narrow RPM sweet spot.  When tuning an intake for a race car, you want to position this ram air effect at your target rpm range that you spent most of the time at, usually towards the top of the rev range.  The downside is that when you aren’t at that RPM, you will not gain these benefits and the car will be down on power.  For awhile this was just a given, but at some point car manufacturers started adding in variable runner length manifolds, so that the extra power lump can occur at two separate stages.  A set of long tubes for cruising-around-town torque, and a way to switch to short tubes when you get on the go-pedal and want to rev it up a little.

Yea Ok, but what does a DISA valve actually do?

Mercedes Benz handles this two stage intake scenario with a very complicated set of plastic folding valves and flaps, which tend to go bad and require a very expensive service.  BMW developed a pretty ingenious solution that uses only this small valve to block off flow across various portions of the intake.  The intake is actually two separate loops folded over itself, which is why the throttle body is positioned at the bottom.  At low RPM, the valve stays closed.

With the #1 intake valves open and the DISA closed, there is a straight path to the cylinder

This forces the pressure wave to take the long way around the manifold through the “resonance tubes”, resulting in a longer runner and ultimately better low end torque.

When the intake valves close on cyl 1, the pressure wave is directed into the resonance manifold and helps direct air to the other side of the manifold the long way.

When the engine transfers over to a high rpm setting, the valve opens, allowing the pressure wave to take a short cut and act more like a short length intake.

At 3750rpm, the valve opens the second circuit to allow air to enter through both sides of the manifold

Both resonance tubes are then open to allow the maximum amount of air to be sucked into the engine as an added bonus.

With the short cut added, both resonance tubes are open as intake tubes, and the pressure wave can shortcut to the other side of the engine.

In later engines, a third circuit is added to fill out the midrange RPM spectrum, along with a second DISA valve.  The principle is the same, with only the length of the shortcut changed in order to achieve a medium range power boost.

Our kit 100K10336 replaces both of the DISA valves on the 3-stage intake manifolds at once.

When merged with Vanos or Double Vanos, BMW has achieved a highly variable engine with a much broader torque curve without adding substantial complexity.  Yes, Vanos Solenoids do go bad, and DISA valves also break, but they are not hard to replace and generally are inexpensive to repair.  If you have any questions as to what DISA valve fits your car, contact customer service today, or simply put your car into our vehicle selector and check out our categories yourself.  I hope this made sense, and let me know if you have any feedback by commenting below!

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25 thoughts on “What is a DISA Valve? A Rundown of Symptoms and Replacement
    • Adam Goral

      Glad we can be helpful Sharon! Cars are complicated and we want to try to demystify as much as possible to make sure you get the right parts fast, and keep your vehicle maintained and reliable for the lowest bottom line cost. Often times that means replacing a part before it breaks.

  1. keith dinangwe

    absolutely fastastic,thanx for this piece of info.Was running my e46 with a faulty valve coz sme1 said its not critical.thanx mate

  2. Earle Younger

    530i E39 M54 with 178K miles running great. Will take your advice on preemptive DISA replacement to add a few more miles and avoid potential engine problem. Appreciate the detailed information.

    • Adam Goral

      Thanks for reading, the parts are relatively inexpensive and I recently saw a photo of an air flap from the DISA unit broken apart and jammed into the intake port of an engine. Plus, you know you will have great air seals with a new one, why wait until a disaster to replace it? If you have a high mile BMW, replacing the DISA valve (or valves) preemptively could save you a weekend of headaches. Imagine needing major engine service on a road trip!

  3. Duncan harrison

    hi i have a 1999 323ci with 150k,noticed the disa valve os not plugged in when i brought the car but when plugged in it makes a high pitch whistle sound,any ideas??

    • Adam Goral

      Definitely sounds like something’s broken, I would pull it out and inspect. It’s not too difficult to remove, I’m surprised you don’t have a Check Engine light on.

    • Adam Goral

      Not generally, since the DISA valve operates all the cylinders at once. The only way this could happen is if it broke apart and parts of it are crammed into the intake port. The easiest way to make sure everything there is OK is to pull the DISA out and make sure everything is in tact. If it is, the next step would be to replace the spark plugs if they haven’t done been done recently, and inspect specifically #2. Sometimes the valve cover gasket can leak into the spark plug hole and soak the electrode. IF everything looks dry and it still runs poorly after installing new plugs, you should replace the ignition coil as the next logical step. Use these spark plugs, they are the same as Genuine BMW straight from Bosch: https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/10298/Spark-Plug-High-Power-FGR7DQP/ and use this ignition coil, which is Delphi (The OEM for BMW as well) https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/166595/Ignition-Coil-GN1057112B1/ if you have the M54 engine.

  4. JP

    Car gets hesitant and misfire randomly at 70-75 miles on a hill or releasing the gas at 80. Swap plugs and coils from cilinders coming on the check engine, but there is no pattern. Could it be a laggy DISA, doesent sound broken but could be slow and affecting timing enough to produce the misfires?
    Thanks great article! Ho is a 04 330xi with 140 miles (original DISA? Plugs replace less than 20 miles) fuel pump and filter replaced and fuel pressure is good.

  5. Ed

    Hi, I’ve got a 2001 BMW 325i saloon with error codes describing running lean (P0171 & P0174). Could it be a fault with this part or its seal? Or do you think its only the Idle Control Valve (I also have another error code for this being stuck open).

    Other question; I have error codes for the O2 sensors (P0140, P0141 & P0161), would these appear because of a vacuum fault or do you think the fault is independent with the sensors?

    Many thanks,


    • Adam Goral

      Hey Ed, that’s a lot of codes! First off, it’s common for the air mass meter boot, or intake boot, to tear. When this happens, unmetered air gets into the air stream after the airmass meter so the fuel mixture is leaned out. It could be your problem potentially as we have seen this a lot before, so give your boot a good check. Here’s the part. https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/166884/Air-Mass-Meter-Boot-Throttle-Body-Side-ABV0137/ Clean the Air Mass Meter while you’re at it. The most common place for it to rip is the small hose boot coming off the IAC.

      If you know the IAC is bad, that’s a great first place to start, since it bypasses air around the air mass meter. Here’s the part for that in OEM BOSCH brand: https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/8246/Idle-Control-Valve-9134743/ Other common causes for those codes would be (you guessed it) DISA valve seals. Check every junction in your intake and vacuum system for cracks and tears, sometimes they won’t be visible.

      The lean running code is triggered by the O2 sensors, so I would start with diagnosing the lean condition before moving on to those P014x codes. Here’s a completely excellent video illustrating all the things I mentioned, check it out! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3encrkBsss0

  6. Fabian

    Thanks my 05 3.0 x5 is tapping at the Disa check light came on and a complete loss (80%)of power pretty sure it’s the disa ..

  7. oasis

    Is there any possibility that the air flap broken into 2 pieces and the metal pole inside the flap falls into the engine and caused the damage of the piston? I am supplier of the DISA valve but I never see something like this. Because as a nylon product it is impossible for the air flap to fall in 2 pieces. Do you have any opinion on that?

    • Adam Goral

      I have heard numerous unsubstantiated claims that DISA valves have broken and lodged themselves into engine intake ports. I have not seen it myself but in my opinion if this is possible, there is absolutely a probability of a broken DISA flap making its way into the cylinders. With long exposure to high temperatures and heat cycling, as well as chemicals (PCV oil), plastic becomes brittle and eventually cracks and breaks.


    Hey! trying to fix my sons bmw e39 m54 . we,ve bought a new disa valve from germany and fitted it expecting it work.
    i saw straight away that the valve stayed open when engine started:(. WE have 5,0v at the connection(expected 12v).
    No motor lampa is on, little dead spot when first pulling away but otherwise seems ok.The owner before us removed the flap for some reason?
    In the time we,ve had this over engineered german wagon we have changed the air mass meter,intake houses and ccv.
    motor has gone 260000k.
    Any ideas???

    • Adam Goral

      Verify if 12v is the correct voltage for that connector. If you do, then you can start the tedium of finding where the voltage drop is coming from. Probably a rusty ground somewhere that needs to be cleaned, that’s causing excess resistance.

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