At this point I have now changed an oil filter housing gasket on both an E36 325i and M3, however as you can see from the parts fitment of this gasket, it will be very similar on all M50,M52,M54, S50, S52 and S54 motors. Photos will be from an M50 and S50 motors, and you may have a few additional wires or hoses to deal with on the newer motors, but the heart of this DIY remains the same. Since you will be disconnecting the alternator MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. Parts needed: Oil Filter Housing Gasket 2-4 Vanos Line crush washers* 2 washers if you only want to disconnect one end of the line, 4 if you are replacing the VANOS line This is a good opportunity to replace your VANOS oil line as well if it is old* Since you have to at least loosen it, why not
I like big brakes and I cannot lie. There is nothing quite as reassuring as having strong brakes when you are flying down the front straight into a tight corner on a race track. While the stock brakes on my E36 325i can get the job done with some upgraded pads, fluid and stainless steel lines, I decided to go big on my wife’s car and do an E36 brake upgrade on the front, by swapping M3 parts. Unfortunately this swap wasn’t as simple as my R32 brake swap on my old MKV Rabbit, which only required brake lines, calipers and caliper hangers in addition to the rotors and pads. The E36 is a little more involved because BMW made the bolt-up points for the caliper hangers different between the M and Non-M E36 cars. Parts you need: M3 Spindles (check your local junkyard or enthusiast site) M3 Caliper Hangers
There you are, driving along, and you start to slow down for a light. As you coast with your foot off the gas, the RPMs start to drop….and keep dropping….until your engine stalls out. Well, this happened to me, except instead of at a traffic light, it was while pulling into the pits at the end of a track session. I start the car back up, it spins up but then when it tries to idle down, it just stalls. The only error code? O2 sensor has a bad reading. With the help of a track friend of mine, we diagnosed it as a vacuum leak in the E36 idle control valve hose. That lead to me replacing all of my hoses on my track car, but unfortunately, I didn’t have the time to document the process. Fortunately, my wife has joined the E36 6cyl family and her car needed
With the motor and trans finally removed from our new E36 project World Racing League Group 2 build, and 54 lbs of copper spaghetti safely spread out on a table, it was time to de-gunk the major components and the chassis. The chassis itself had seen the better part of 220K but overall, was fairly clean. No globs of caked on grease or signs of huge oil leaks from the motor. Eggboy Racing Team member Steve tackled the dirty job of power washing the motor/trans as well as scrubbing down the engine bay. While Steve got the chassis cleaned up, Scott from Izzy’s Custom Cages worked on building the rotisserie mounts… or the bumpers for any East Coast budget endurance races 🙂 Since the other two rotisseries at Izzy’s were full of customers long term projects, an A Frame Hoist was put to use as a temporary home for the
Here I am, back again, with another DIY from working on my 1995 BMW 325i. You may wonder why I am always fixing things, and the short answer is because racecar. The long answer is that I am getting all of the gremlins out of this car one at a time as I take a 170,000+ mile BMW that costs me $1600 and turn it into a strong track car for time trials and possibly wheel to wheel racing in the coming years. I already refreshed my power steering lines and reservoir, and replaced my engine mounts and transmission mounts. I also had a friend swap out the drive shaft flex disk (or guibo) for me. Now I am tackling an oil leak from a worn out, aged, and brittle valve cover gasket.